Last June, The Seattle Times published an article purporting to give a places-to-see tour of Seattle. Somehow, it managed to completely leave out South Seattle, even going as far as misidentifying Alki, in West Seattle, as part of South Seattle. When a reader pointed out its omission, the author took another shot at it and managed to identify several places in the Georgetown neighborhood and Kubota Garden in Rainier Beach.
Anyone even remotely familiar with South Seattle could have done better. Here's my take on a real tour of places to see in South Seattle. All are accessible by bicycle, public transit, and car.
Let's start with one of the best pocket parks in the city, located just north of That's Amore restaurant on 31st Avenue South. From Mt. Baker Ridge Viewpoint Park, you can look down across all of Seattle. Stunning in the evening, especially after one of the best meals in town at That's Amore.
Drive west on South Massachusetts Street to the beautiful Jimi Hendrix Park and the Northwest African American Museum (NAAM). Jimi Hendrix Park, owned and maintained by Seattle Parks and Recreation, is a 2.3-acre, sprawling green space dotted with sculptures and art evocative of Jimi Hendrix music and great for picnics. There are many outdoor performances and community events held there during the summer.
A historic school property occupied by protesters against injustice for many years, NAAM was renovated in the early 2000s. It periodically holds exhibits about local and national history as well as art by local artists of African descent. The building contains the museum and meeting rooms on the first floor and low-income housing on the upper floors.
Next, head over to north Beacon Hill, where you'll find El Centro de la Raza at the corner of 16th Avenue South and South Bayview. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this was another historic school property, occupied in 1972 by protesters against the injustices of racism and the Vietnam War, and converted over many years into a community service center. The recently built Plaza Roberto Maestas, named for El Centro's founder, is adjacent.
Travel south on Beacon Avenue South to Jefferson Park, the sixth largest park in the city. Also owned and operated by Seattle Parks and Recreation, this vast park encompasses tennis courts, sports playfields, a summertime spray park, and the very popular 18-hole Bill Wright Golf Complex. Part of the Olmstead-inspired path system, the park has beautiful views of the Duwamish River Valley, the city, and the Olympic mountain range.
Go east along South Alaska Street to Rainier Avenue South and into the heart of Columbia City, a vibrant, multiethnic, multicultural hub filled with shops and restaurants. Stop by the historic Ark Lodge Cinema to catch a first-run movie. Take a wander through Columbia City Art Gallery for jewelry, paintings, fabric art, or some original greeting cards, all made by members of its collective. Grab some Hawaiian/Korean food at Marination, or Caribbean at Island Soul (don't miss its house-made ginger beer), then head over to one of the best jazz venues in the city, The Royal Room, a venue by and for jazz lovers featuring great local and nationally touring jazz musicians.
As you head southward on Rainier Avenue South, stop at any one of the many Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurants for a taste of East Africa.
Finally, let's end where The Seattle Times started — the hidden gem of Rainier Beach, Kubota Garden.* Listed as No. 11 on Tripadvisor's list of things to do in Seattle, Kubota Garden is a 20-acre Japanese garden comprising nine ponds (some with koi); several bridges, including two classic red bridges; and over 200 varieties of maples, historic trees, and several varieties of hydrangeas and rhododendrons. The Terrace Overlook, sitting atop a dry-fitted ishigaki wall built by stonemasons from Japan, is one of the most popular wedding venues in Seattle. Founded in 1927 by Japanese immigrant Fujitaro Kubota as the showpiece for his landscape gardening business, the garden was purchased by Seattle Parks and Recreation in 1988 when neighbors lobbied to stop the sale of the property to developers.
These are just a few of the many, many, many places The Seattle Times excluded from its so-called tour of South Seattle. Helicoptering reporters into South End communities will never produce a true sense of who South Enders are. The South Seattle Emerald is written by, for, and with members of our communities for this very reason. We work to bring visibility to the invisible; to reflect the beauty and power of the South End. Thank you for your continuing support.
*Disclaimer: Lola Peters works on contract for the Kubota Garden Foundation.
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